Cleaning thrifted clothes properly increases value and buyer confidence. Do it wrong, and you destroy inventory. The key: understand your fabrics and use the least aggressive method that works.
This guide covers fabric-specific cleaning methods, when to wash versus when to skip, and how to handle the common issues resellers face—stains, odors, and general thrift store grime.
The Golden Rule: Start Gentle
Always begin with the least invasive method and escalate only if necessary. A standard wash cycle can destroy vintage rayon in seconds. A gentle spot clean might be all you need.
Before any cleaning: check the care label, test on an inconspicuous area, and when in doubt, do less rather than more.
Fabric-by-Fabric Guide
Cotton & Cotton Blends
Safety level: High — most forgiving fabric
Method: Machine wash cold or warm, tumble dry low. Pre-treat stains with OxiClean or dish soap. Inspect pits for yellowing before washing—set stains need pre-treatment.
Watch for: Shrinkage on pre-washed vintage. High heat can shrink older cotton significantly.
Wool & Cashmere
Safety level: Medium — can shrink or felt if mishandled
Method: Hand wash in cold water with wool-specific detergent (Eucalan, Woolite). Gently press—never wring. Lay flat to dry on a towel.
Watch for: Agitation causes felting. Never use regular wash cycle. Check for moth holes before investing cleaning time.
Silk
Safety level: Low — water can spot, colors can bleed
Method: Dry clean recommended. If hand washing: cold water, silk-specific detergent, no rubbing, no wringing. Roll in towel to remove water, hang to dry away from sunlight.
Watch for: Water spots, color bleeding, loss of sheen. Test in hidden area first.
Vintage Rayon & Viscose
Safety level: Very Low — water weakens fibers dramatically
Method: Dry clean only for vintage pieces. Modern rayon may tolerate gentle hand wash, but vintage rayon can literally fall apart when wet.
Watch for: Shrinkage, fiber damage, loss of drape. When in doubt, dry clean or sell as-is with condition notes.
Polyester & Synthetics
Safety level: High — very durable
Method: Machine wash cold, tumble dry low. Polyester holds odors—may need extra rinse or odor treatment.
Watch for: Heat damage (melting, pilling). Keep away from high heat.
Denim
Safety level: High for standard, medium for raw/selvedge
Method: Machine wash cold, inside out, hang to dry. For raw denim: spot clean only or gentle cold soak—washing changes the fade pattern.
Watch for: Indigo transfer to other items. Wash denim separately.
When NOT to Wash
Some items shouldn't be washed at all—or should go straight to professional cleaning:
Structured garments: Blazers, suit jackets, and tailored pieces have internal construction (canvas, padding) that washing destroys. Spot clean or dry clean only.
Beaded or embellished items: Beads can crack, sequins can melt, embroidery can shrink. Spot clean around embellishments.
Vintage pieces over 50 years old: Fabric integrity may be compromised. Professional cleaning or careful hand cleaning only.
Anything you can't identify: Unknown fabric? Don't risk it. Sell as-is with honest condition notes, or test a hidden area first.
The Reseller Cleaning Workflow
Process your thrift hauls efficiently:
Step 1: Sort by fabric type. Group cotton together, wool together, delicates together. This prevents repeated machine loads and reduces handling time.
Step 2: Inspect for issues. Check for stains, odors, damage. Items with issues go into separate piles for targeted treatment.
Step 3: Pre-treat stains. Address stains before washing—heat sets stains permanently.
Step 4: Wash in batches. Machine-washables together, hand-wash items in a basin, dry-clean-only items set aside.
Step 5: Air dry when possible. Hang drying extends garment life and prevents shrinkage. Reserve dryer for items that can handle it.
Step 6: Steam and press. Finish with steaming for a photo-ready appearance. See pressing guide.
Common Cleaning Mistakes
Using Hot Water
Hot water shrinks natural fibers and sets protein-based stains (blood, sweat). Default to cold water unless you have a specific reason for warm.
Over-Drying
High heat damages fibers, causes shrinkage, and sets wrinkles. Use low heat or air dry.
Ignoring Care Labels
Care labels exist for a reason. "Dry Clean Only" on silk means don't experiment unless you're prepared to lose the piece.
Mixing Colors on First Wash
Thrifted items may not be color-fast. Wash darks and brights separately on first wash, or test for color bleeding first.
Cost-Benefit Analysis
Cleaning takes time and supplies cost money. Apply the same decision framework you use for sourcing:
A $5 thrift find that needs dry cleaning ($8-15) only makes sense if the final sale price justifies the total investment. Factor cleaning costs into your sourcing decisions, not after purchase.
For high-value items (designer, vintage collectible), professional cleaning protects your investment. For common items, batch process with home methods to keep costs low.
Removing Common Stains from Thrifted Clothes
Tackle pit stains, ink, marker, and mystery spots.